Making the Move Indoors!
To better understand rabbits in the home, it helps to understand them in the wild. Rabbits are very sociable creatures. Unlike hares, which live single solitary lives, rabbits for the most part live in large groups and stay on one or two acres of land. They get to know every square inch of their territory. They do this because running away from predators is how rabbits survive. Knowing what's around the next curve or over the next tree trunk can mean the difference between life and death for a rabbit. They survive by knowing their territory better than the animal that's chasing them. There are three important things to remember here; rabbits are animals that are preyed upon, they survive by knowing their territory extremely well, and they are by nature, territorial animals. It's hard for me to believe that for so many years, people who had rabbits as pets kept them caged. Knowing that rabbits take as their own territory, so much land, it's hard to imagine keeping one caged. About four years ago, I took my outdoor rabbits and moved them inside, to be part of the family. They now have complete freedom during the day and evening hours in my home. The thought of keeping a rabbit outside in a hutch where they have no choice but to listen to scarey neighborhood noises of the night, watching cats and other animals walk by, and fearing for their lives is completely repulsive to me. With an indoor cage, two litterboxes, a Dust Buster and some patience and imagination, you can have a wonderful indoor pet that will live 10 years or more, be very popular with guests, and will become much closer to you than if they lived outside.
Understanding Behavior
It's important to remember here that rabbits are territorial and they're preyed upon. With this in mind, it's also important to understand that rabbits need a place they can call their own, within your home. Free from interference from anyone, these rabbits can enjoy their own sanctuary in a place of their own choosing, or in the previously mentioned indoor cage. Again, here they can find sanctuary from perceived threats, like strangers in the house or scary noises. A roomy wire cage with water and food available, and a litterbox inside the enclosure is essential. Yes, even rabbits can be easily trained to use a litterbox in the home. I also recommend a litterbox or two outside the cage in other areas of the house where the rabbit has access to. Rabbits are creatures of habit, and all one has to do to house train a rabbit is take advantage of this. I just had to find where my rabbits wanted to "go to the bathroom" and I put a litterbox there with some samples of their work. After a short time, it was no problem. Just in case of minor accidents, I also highly recommend a Dust Buster type vacuum to pick up any mistakes. Multiple rabbits may mark their territory around litterboxes. This isn't unusual.
Two things I've learned from experience in having house rabbits... Never leave a rabbit unsupervised in the house unless you've made every effort to remove objects that can be chewed. This is called rabbit proofing your house and is discussed below. You can count on your rabbit to examine every inch of every room in search of things to play with, chew or jump on. Rabbits also like large cardboard boxes to play in. This sometimes stops them from getting into something they shouldn't. Just cut a hole in the box for a door, and your rabbits will adopt this as a playhouse to go in or jump on. Sometimes, they will tear it apart. But that's ok! Better that than your wallpaper. The second thing I learned is that restricting their access to even small parts of the house can peak their curiosity. They will stop at nothing to get past any barricade that impedes their access. This is further evidence that rabbits crave and enjoy having freedom, something that shouldn't be denied them. However, giving them access to just part of the house is a good idea at first.
Rabbit Proofing Your Home
Once thought to be rodents, rabbits and hares are actually classified in the order Lagomorpha. Like rodents though, rabbits teeth are continually growing, so they gnaw on everything. They have strong front teeth that need to be at work constantly. When considering making a rabbit a house pet, plan on removing access to electrical cords, cables, and houseplants. Hide any power cords that you can. For cords you can't hide, buy clear plastic tubing from your nearest hardware store, slice it lenghtwise with a sharp knife, and put your power cord inside the plastic tubing. This will shield your cords for at least a few years. Also, raise houseplants out of the reach of your bunny. Rabbits will definitely find these items and chew them to death. Instead, provide rabbit toys that are acceptable for them to chew on. These would usually include cardboard objects such as the center of a paper towel roll or an empty round Quaker Oats box, or magazines printed on soy ink (they love to rip paper). Once the hazardous things have been removed, however, rabbits make excellent house pets. They are generally calm, quiet, clean animals that can be trained to use a litterbox or their own cage. Rabbits are creatures of habit, making litterbox training easy. It does take some patience though, but the payoff is a house pet that will not bark, attack people, or spread fleas. I recommend a large indoor cage with a removable bottom so kitty litter can be maintained. I also recommend putting a litter box inside the cage and one outside. Get the rabbit used to going to the bathroom in the cage, and gradually give him/her access to the house small increments at a time. What you will have is a wonderful house pet that will quickly steal the heart of any friends you introduce them to.
Quite a lot has been written recently about rabbit's diets. I've updated this page to contain the most up to date information because this subject is so important. Characteristic of most people, rabbits like to eat what tastes good, not necessarily what's good for them. So you have to be careful what you feed them. The foundation of the rabbit's diet is a good source of fiber. Due to the mechanics of their digestive system, rabbits need plenty of fiber every day. High fiber is the Holy Grail of a rabbit's health because the digestive system is the heart and sole of a healthy rabbit. That makes choosing a good brand rabbit pellet all the more important. Be careful though, not all pellets are alike. In fact, pellets sold in grocery stores shouldn't be given to rabbits, and most of the pellets sold in pet stores are also unacceptable. For instance, a rabbit pellet that is below 18% in crude fiber should not be given at all. And a good pellet will be at least 14% protein. The brand now most recommended by people who really know rabbits is made by a company called Oxbow Hay Company. I am so taken by this company and what they've done for my rabbit's diets that I ordered their new high fiber blend, Bunny Basics/T and I"m amazed at the results. I have older rabbits who need a higher fiber (22% +), lower protein pellet, and Bunny Basics/T is unbeatable. Their other pellet product is for younger rabbits (under age 3) and is called Bunny Basics 15/23. As the name describes, it's 15% protein and 23% fiber. I have searched high and low for the best pellets available, and I believe that Oxbow Hay Company has the best. If you can't find it in a local pet store, have them order for you. Oxbow's website is at www.oxbowhay.com. Their toll free phone number is 1-800-249-0366. I think it's important to mention a company who can do so much for a rabbit's health!
It's also important to supplement the bunny's diet with timothy hay, and when you can find some, oat hay. Both are better than Alfalfa hay, which is too high in calcium. Oat and timothy hay are highly recommended by exotic animal vets who really know rabbits. Hay is about 33% fiber, and even modest eating on the rabbit's part helps the digestive tract a great deal. Also, avoid buying block hay that you see in pet stores. Rabbits typically don't like the block hay but will readily eat regular hay. Best to buy it from a local feed store that has fresh product available. Even here in the Los Angeles area, I have no trouble finding good hay.
Both hay and pellets need to be given fresh everyday, with unused portions being discarded. Think of eating a potato chip that has been sitting out in the open for two days. It would taste moist and yucky. That's what happens to pellets if left out too long. And remember, when switching pellets, do it gradually over a five day or so period to avoid upsetting the rabbits digestive system.
As one would imagine, rabbits love to eat vegetables. They will eat almost anything that grows from the ground. Unfortunately, being herbivores, they also love to eat most of my house plants and my palm trees in the backyard. As far as veggies go, the only ones I would avoid are cabbage (and cabbage related veggies) along with lettuce, celery and asparagus. Cabbage is too gassy and can hurt them while celery is too stringy. Lettuce has no nutritional value at all and asparagus must be too pungent for them. They don't seem to like it. Rabbits do love carrots and carrot tops, broccoli, brussel sprouts, cauliflower, spinach, bok choy, green peppers, radish tops, watercress, and cilantro.
In the wild, rabbits typically live single, solitary lives, when over crowding is not a problem, in underground burrows when they're not out and about. They usually occupy a few acres of land each, and they get to know every square inch of it. This is their main defense against predators. So, rabbits by nature, are territorial creatures and have a huge expanse of land to occupy. Understanding how rabbits live in the wild is further testimony that caging them is a crime against nature. I've observed my rabbits inspecting every aspect of my house, every nook and cranny. And when their progress is blocked by a barricade, they won't quit trying to get passed it. My male rabbit will hop up on my couch, jump up on the back and run along to an end table, and jump to freedom just to make it passed a barrier. It's the need to know every square inch of his/her home that helps a rabbit survive in the wild. Their defense is running away from predators. That is probably why rabbits are so incredibly inquisitive. Also helping to survive in the wild, a rabbit's eyes are capable of seeing in every direction making it possible to watch birds in the air and other predators on the ground. The ears are also very sensitive. When the rabbit's at ease, the ears will lie down along the back. But when aroused, the ears stand straight up and listen for possible enemies. Being so sensitive, a rabbit should never be picked up by the ears. Instead, a rabbit should be picked up by placing a hand under the chest with fingers between the front feet and another hand under the rump. A rabbit's nose is also very sensitive, so touching the immediate nose area should be avoided.
From www.rabbitworld.com